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No memorial for the thousands that made landmarks their homes before being resettled.
The Partition of India sparked one of the greatest mass migrations in
modern history, with millions seeking sanctuary from the violence inside
ancient tombs and forts transforming them into sprawling refugee camps.
More than 15 million people were displaced following India's
independence from Britain in 1947, with Muslims embarking for the newly formed
Pakistan as Hindus and Sikhs moved in the opposite direction.
At least a million died along the journey, the rest pouring into fetid
camps erected in cities already pushed to the brink by violence, looting and
food shortages.
In New Delhi, where law and order had almost completely broken down,
tens of thousands of Muslims sheltered behind the 16th-century walls of
Humayan's Tomb waiting for safe passage to Pakistan.
Tents were erected in the fine gardens surrounding the spectacular
mausoleum the inspiration for the Taj Mahal and spilled over to encircle the
smaller tombs dotting the Mughal-era complex.
As space became scarce whole families huddled together with their life's
possessions on the exposed upper levels of the grand courtyard of the enormous
domed monument itself.
The regal fountains at Humayan's Tomb "became so fouled with human
dirt that they had to be filled in with sand", wrote historian Yasmin Khan
in her book 'The Great Partition'.
The influx continued unabated until refugees made up almost one-third of
the population of Delhi.
Those arriving by foot, train and tonga horse-drawn carts slept in
marketplaces, under lean-tos or searched for space in vast tent cities that
sprung over all over the capital.
One of the largest was at the ancient fort of Purana Qila where refugees
from all walks of life camped "with their camels and tongas and ponies,
battered old taxis and luxury limousines", wrote eyewitness Richard
Symonds as quoted in Khan's book.
"The Delhi forts are landmarks for the Partition," said
Guneeta Singh Balla, founder and executive director of the 1947 Partition
Archive.
"The images of the refugee camps there are still very
dramatic."
In parts of Punjab, the desert region split between India and Pakistan,
rationing was reduced to a single chapatti a day as food shortages bit and
begging and starvation were widespread.
Amritsar less than 30 kilometres from the new border endured horrific
rioting, with areas like Katra Jaimal Singh and Chowk Bijli Wala all but
destroyed amid looting and arson.
Sikhs fleeing persecution sought refuge at Khalsa College, a prestigious
and picturesque Victorian-era university built in the late 19th-century, that
staged as a relief camp.
A new museum in Amritsar is helping record and digitise Partition
history.
But in Delhi there is no memorial at the
landmarks that housed countless refugees to mark this dark chapter in their
centuries-old existence.
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